Girona Tour Day 3: Coastal Loop to Sant Grau, Sant Feliu de Guixols, and Monells

By Mark

Day 3 of the tour started on the evening of day 2, with an inspirational ride briefing from the route master Rob H. Any thoughts of short-cutting to the lunch stop; rolling out late to avoid the rain; or even skipping day 3 altogether, were quashed by the sight of Rob delivering his briefing with remarkable professionalism for someone nursing injuries that would keep a lesser person down.

In the end, the realisation that if I didn’t make day 3’s ride I’d be spending the day in with my roommate Luke S – who had chosen to stay in bed – was enough motivation for me to ride. I was sure the routine of ride, drink, ride, drink, eat, drink, sleep, repeat was the only thing keeping us out of trouble, and I wasn’t going to put that theory to the test on the last day. Besides, it was the “flat day” right? A little jaunt to the seaside…

Random picture of Luke S from 2024 as he was missing from all day 3 pics

A few groups had already rolled off by the time W2.5 (tour only classification) assembled outside the hotel. Taking a different route out of Girona, heading south this time, we were promptly greeted with the most torrential downpour of the tour – at least in terms of precipitation. We were a bit more prepared this time.

Once out of town, we were soon heading along the now familiar wildflower-lined lanes, which cut through the fields and rolling hills of the areas surrounding Girona. After an hour or two, this gave way to sparsely populated Mediterranean forest and the odd bird of prey, which indicated we were on the road to Sant Grau. The earlier rain clouds were clinging onto the trees, which in turn released aromas of pine and eucalyptus, reinvigorating the senses as we tackled the primary climb of the day. I’m now worrying just how out of date these cheap gels are, but who cares, I am flying.

According to Strava, Sant Grau is 340m over 8.6km @ 4%, although it felt like two distinct climbs, both of which were gradual and almost pleasant. My sort of climbing, i.e. short and easy. 

At the top of Sant Grau we were rewarded with coffee or hot chocolate (who realised it was such a controversial choice?) from a picture perfect monastery, which accepted cash and broken Spanish/English. They even provided a fire to dry out next to. 

Bar - Restaurante Ermita de Sant Grau:

After the legitimate yellow jersey offences over the first few days (what goes on tour, stays on tour) it felt like we were now down to clutching at straws. Sophie’s choice of drink was apparently the latest indiscretion.  

I had learnt my lesson, and even though the meat rack they were firing up in the courtyard smelled great, I found it easy to resist this time. I’m not sure if Tim showed the same restraint.

A great rack of meat:

Leaving the monastery, we were immediately descending towards the coast. I valiantly led from the rear of my group, which meant I could take in the stunning vistas before me as the sea suddenly revealed itself.

Again, this section of the ride had a character of its own. The coastline was rugged at first, with sheer drop cliffs and the odd cluster of houses dotted at inlets far below the main road. After a lovely long sweeping coastal road we hit Sant Feliu de Guixols, in the heart of the Costa Brava. The next few KM’s were ticked off at a slower pace as we picked our way through a few laid-back Spanish resorts, stopping only for amazing looking cakes and pastries at the infamous Dulce Pikika. I was tempted but, conscious there were still yellow jerseys out there to be earned, again I resisted.

Sant Feliu de Guixols:

We turned inland and headed for the only other significant climb of the day – the 5km, 4% Alt de la Ganga. Last climb of the tour and one of the nicest (you should be getting an idea of what I like riding by now). 

We had turned back into more beautiful Catalan countryside and the blue skies felt like they were here to stay now. Surely. We could taste lunch as we wound along the road to Monells.

The final lunch stop in Monells was top notch. Copious amounts of the creamiest burrata, sweet mortadella, juicy bresaola, and these were just the entrees. Along with the beers, they went down a lot easier than the breadsticks. 

Restaurant Trattoria Olimpia, Monells

Initially worried that we would be too rowdy for the other guests, luckily we had exclusive use of both rooms. 

Room 2 reminded me of the sweatbox clubs under the arches in Vauxhall – broken bodies everywhere – albeit with fewer people in dubious lycra and a much better wine selection.

A quick walk across the cobbles in Monells and we were soon homebound. 

The evening meal was equally as impressive as lunch. But after that I made a quick getaway, conscious of my early train ride back to London the following morning. I had seen the effects of a hangover and a train sausage on Richard T and I wasn’t ready to repeat it.

Train sausage:

I’ll leave the last words to thank Rob H for arranging an amazing day 3 route, with first class stops, and just the right amount of climbing. I got a bit emotional at points, riding it without him – rumour has it I was on course for a KoM up Alt de la Ganga before I had to pull over to wash the tears out of my eyes with High5. What a way to end the tour.