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Como Tour Stage 2: Lago di Como

Writer's picture: Matt FantasticMatt Fantastic

Updated: Nov 10, 2019

After the dampness of Day 1, the prospect of more rain forecast for Day 2’s marathon 162km lap of Lago di Como hung over Group 3 of 4 as we set off north from Menaggio. A headwind and tired legs strung the group out initially but we soon found a rhythm on the main road around the lake, interspersing fast open roads with narrow town streets, gentle ups and downs. That was until the tunnel game - how to tell if an upcoming tunnel is more than a kilometre long from sufficiently far away to give one time to find an alternative route around the outside, AND to make the turn?!


It was stopped by one such puzzle that Group 4, including the Tour Dad’s and speedsters (Fred, Tim et al) smoothed past as we dithered by the side of the road. Now we were off the back, the clouds looked menacing, coffee wasn’t scheduled for at least 2 hours and that definitely felt like a head wind. All the hallmarks of a very long day.


We battled on (through the tunnel, there was no route around this time), however, and caught up enough to see Group 4 get fed up with waiting for not one but two red lights and gingerly cycle through an improbably narrow main road; through the town perched on the side of the lake. We stopped and discussed yellow jerseys until the lights turned green.


The rumour was that the rain was less likely to hit the other side of the lake, AND that’s where coffee was, so we picked up the pace heading to the top of the lake - this part seemed less picturesque, less wealthy than the southern sections of Day 1, the Alps looming above us, still covered in snow. So it was no great loss, head down following the great Dave Bate, until that is, he nearly led us into a crash barrier as we negotiated the junction off the A road - fortunately we weren’t the only ones to miss that particular turn and we met up with the erstwhile Groupo 4 shortly afterwards in an industrial estate car park. Glamorous Como...


Heading south to the coffee stop at Lierna passed quickly as the sun came out and in due course we happened upon a beautiful square, scattered with Waldies basking in the mid-morning warmth, shouting orders to the bar and taking in the day's first refreshments from a still well-stocked van. A few photos down by the lake and you can start to see what all the fuss is about. Blue sky and clear calm waters, surrounded by green dotted with terracotta villas. Very far from yesterday’s grey blustery drizzle at Sormano and the descent into Bellagio. This is what touring’s all about.


Not falling over on your bike whilst stationery in a car park, Bertrand. Jersey.


I’d say that the next section was some of my favourite of the trip, through the wooded hillside along the river, gentle(ish) climbs and descents, winding round and down and along. Past villas and gardens, and even glimpsing Padme’s Naboo hideaway. A few more tunnel games and near misses. Even Bellagio in the sun was OK, as we went down one leg of the lake, up and across the crotch and down to the picnic lunch in Torno. It was here that we were reminded of why it doesn’t pay to be in the last group. Rationing had been imposed too late as we shared a tomato, a lump of cheese and a slice of ham.

Fortunately there was plenty of wine and bananas, so everything was fine, and it just meant that as we passed through Como we sampled the impromptu delights of their version of a Tesco Express that just happened to be selling warm pizza calzone-type things to go (and sushi for Simon Bricknell, naturally!?). The very friendly lady who engaged us in conversation at checkout made the al fresco meal all the more surreal. Sadly that meant that when the rain hit, we still had a few miles to go before the ice cream stop and a possible beer. And boy did it hit. I did think about finding George’s door to knock on as we passed to ask for a towel, but it would’t have made a difference - we were all drenched no matter how much, or how little protection.


By the time we reached the café at Lenno, I was pretty much done in - I’d also forgotten that hot chocolate here means just that: slimy warm goop rather than a warming choco-milk beverage - not really my cup of tea... but ice creams and coffee got us back on the road for the last few km to back to Mennaggio (learning to hate that last hill), and a warm shower before heading out.


Drinks on the piazza in front of the lake, before heading to another of Timss locals/share deals at Tato Menaggio - great views of the lake during the day apparently. Amazing local food and wine again, with football - I remember feeling tired and full at one point, but somehow a group ended up back in Trattoria Constantin again, and there then passed the most surreal couple of hours as we had a lock-in with beers and nasty shots (my bad) whilst surfing YouTube on the big screen for old and culturally appropriate (actually mostly inappropriate) music videos: Serge and Charlotte Gainsbourg, Lady Gaga and Bow Wow Wow being a few that made an impression!


What a day! Thanks guys.


Dan Austin

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